Apples of Love

If the Spanish conquistadors had known what they were onto when they brought tomatoes to the old world in the sixteenth century, they wouldn't have spent the rest of their careers searching for gold, because they had already found it. If any of them had any prescience at all, they would have simply opened a canning facility somewhere in the vicinity of Mount Vesuvius, and begun mining the gold that became known as pomodòri 'golden apples'.

By the time southern Italians began manufacturing pasta asciuta 'semolina pasta' in the late eighteenth century, inovative chefs had already invented dozens of preparations for tomatoes (also referred to pómi d'amore 'apples of love'). So when tomato sauce was introduced to pasta, it was indeed love at first sight. Pasta alla marinara was love at first sight for me, anyway.

But due to restrictions imposed by Mother Nature, we here in America can enjoy fresh, vine-ripened plum tomatoes for only about three months of the year. The rest of the time, we depend on the canned variety.

Of those tomatoes that find their way into cans, foodies and gourmets acknowledge those that come from the region of San Marzano to be the finest. There's a lot of talk about the volcanic soil of Calabria; the intensity of the sun in the region; even the name God works its way into the conversation from time to time. Nevertheless, the Italian government has taken the region seriously enough to give the local growers a D.O.C. (Denominazione d'Originata Controllata, or Government Certification).

But there's a knock-off artist lurking around every Cypress tree, and it wasn't too long before canned tomatoes labeled tipo di San Marzano, 'San Marzano-style' began appearing at Italian delis. The latest craze in the tomato game, is taking the seeds from San Marzano tomatoes, and growing them elsewhere in the world. I'm aware of a California grower who's doing well by marketing his tomatoes as having been grown from "San Marzano tomato seeds."

It is encouraging, though, that for the past several years, American growers have begun competing favorably against their Calabrian bretheren. Muir Glen, in Petaluma, CA., for example, grows wonderful organic tomatoes that are readily available at your local grocery super-store.

But there's a problem that crops up with canned tomatoes, especially if they come in unlined cans: they taste "canned." Tomatoes, being acid as they are, often interact with the metal, and absorb some of the metallic taste.

My Sicilian grandmother (and I'm sure her peers as well) solved this problem by adding grated carrot to her marinara sauce. I've seen some validation of this technique in recipes from Mario Batali, and recently, from Pino Luongo in his cookbook, "Simply Tuscan." In fact, Mr. Luongo goes so far as to include a stalk of celery too.

Here in Connecticut, we're probably two and a half months away from picking the first plum tomato. But wouldn't it be great to go to a farmer's market, and see that someone there is selling plum tomatoes grown from San Marzano seeds.

And here is the most requested recipe from the archives of my first Web site, www.northend.com; my grandmother's tomato sauce. (reprinted from my first cookbook, La Cucina dei Poveri). Buon appetito.

Salsa di Pomodoro
My Grandmother's Tomato Sauce

Ingredients:

Olive Oil
4 Cloves garlic, peeled, and thinly sliced
2 28 oz. Cans peeled tomatoes (preferably San Marzano)
1 Small carrot, finely shredded
1/2 tsp. Red pepper flakes
2 Tbs. Fresh oregano, finely chopped
2 Tbs. Fresh basil, finely chopped
1/4 Cup Flat leaf Italian parsley, finely chopped
Salt & freshly ground black pepper

Preparation:

Heat a large sauté pan over medium heat, then add enough olive oil to coat the bottom of the pan. Add the garlic, and sauté, shaking the pan for about one minute, until the garlic begins to give up its aroma.

Remove the pan from the heat and add the tomatoes. Return the pan to the heat and begin to break the tomatoes with either the back of a fork, or a wooden spoon. Lower the heat to medium-low and simmer the tomatoes to evaporate some of the liquid, then add the carrot, the red pepper flakes and the oregano.

Simmer gently for about twenty minutes, or until the sauce has thickened and the clear liquid from the tomatoes has evaporated. Add the parsley and season with salt and pepper.

Makes approximately 1 1/2 Quarts

Skip Lombardi is the author of two cookbooks: "La Cucina dei Poveri: Recipes from my Sicilian Grandparents," and "Almost Italian: Recipes from America's Little Italys." He has been a Broadway musician, high-school math teacher, software engineer, and a fledgeling blogger. But he has never let any of those pursuits interfere with his passion for cooking and eating. Visit his Web site to learn more about his cookbooks. http://www.skiplombardi.com or mailto:info@skiplombardi.com

---

Try Truffles!

Want to serve an elegant, yet easy, dessert? Try truffles. The chocolate kind, that is. Not the fungi. These rich and creamy bite-sized indulgences are really quite... Read More

Chocolate Tasting Techniques

First of all start with an empty stomach. This has never been too much of a stretch for me, I am always willing to sample chocolate before... Read More

Tayberry Jam

The taste of Summer, bursting with flavour and anti-oxidant effects. Tayberries are a Raspberry / Blackberry cross that combines the best of both. Big, succulent fruits that... Read More

Grilled Scallops with Ginger-Lime Sauce

Summer time is great for barbequing, but aren't you tired of burgers and hotdogs? At your next party why not try something a little classier. This scallop... Read More

Weight Loss Recipe: Whole Fish In Ginger Sauce

Lean protein is your diet is essential to weight loss and weight maintenance. Fish is an excellent source of lean protein as it is lower in fat... Read More

Cool Snacks for a Hot Summer

Beat the heat with these cool summer treats!Mouse PopsiclesIt's not what you're thinking! The name refers to the size of the popsicle-not the contents. Wash a bowl... Read More

Ice Cream In A Baggie

Yes, it sounds dangerous and the potential for messes seems highly likely, but you'll be surprised at the good, "clean" fun you'll enjoy when you make ice... Read More

Straight Talk from a Comfort Foodie - The Gravy Train

In all fairness to my mother and the great homemaker that she is, our family did enjoy the fruits of her "from scratch" dishes. She made great... Read More

Seafood Fettuccine Alfredo

Seafood Fettuccine is always a top seller in our restaurants. Any pasta alfredo recipe is easy to prepare making it a great choice for family and friends.... Read More

Handy Home-Prepared Mixes

Pre-packaged store-bought box mixes are expensive. Have you considered homemade alternatives? Made-from-scratch mixes are healthy, cost beneficial, store well, and taste great. Often times, you're paying for... Read More

Best Recipes: Chicken with Apples

Ingredients1½ cups quick-cooking rice 2 large onions, thinly sliced 250g snow peas, trimmed 1 large red cooking apple, cored and coarsely chopped, not peeled 2 tbsp curry... Read More

Vegetarian Gourmet----Meatless Makeovers

Three years ago I decided to go "meatless." It wasn't a difficult decision as I wasn't a voracious carnivore to begin with, however there were a few... Read More

Digging Up Earthnuts (Conopodium Majus)

The custom of grubbing for Earthnuts, or Pignuts is as ancient as mankind itself. Although these tasty tubers are beloved of pigs (hence the name) they are... Read More

Easy to Make Guacamole Dip

You can make guacamole that people will rave about! It's easy, and you don't need any fancy kitchen utensils or appliances.What You'll Need To Have ReadyAssemble the... Read More

Sweet & Sour Fish

Sweet and sour fish is one of the most popular traditional Chinese dish, normally cooked with carp. The method to cook an authentic Chinese sweet and sour... Read More

Zucchini Carrot Salad

Summer is nearing and it is time to start thinking about serving succulent garden grown or farm fresh salads. This zesty Zucchini Carrot Salad recipe is certain... Read More

A Healthy Summertime Snack For Your Kids

Oh, for the lazy days of Summer.... As If!Nowadays we all rush around trying to balance two jobs, the kids and running the house. Many of us... Read More

Rosemary flower candies (Rosemarinus officinalis)

Leave your tic-tacs at home. This medicinal plant provides delicious mouth fresheners to integrate into a balanced healing diet.When a herb or plant has the designation 'officinalis'... Read More

How to Make a Tantalizing White Lightening Chili

Chili cooks always want to discover that award-winning chili recipe that will be tantalizing for their family and friends and maybe even impress a few chili contest... Read More

Straight Talk from a Comfort Foodie - Fast Food

My parents lived for convenience when it came to feeding their children. I was a Beech-Nut kid, and breast-feeding wasn't my mother's idea of liberation. I was... Read More

Summer Basil Pasta Salad

With the long hot days of summer, you will find that you will need something lighter than a T-bone steak. If you are seeking a fresh... Read More

Homemade Cinnamon Rolls from Scratch (in 2 hours or less!)

If I've heard it once, I've heard it a dozen times: "Make homemade cinnamon rolls? From scratch? Are you crazy? That takes all day!"Actually, it depends upon... Read More

Nutritious Chocolate Recipes

Are you eating enough fruit lately? How about chocolate? Well, here are three cool ways to make sure you're getting enough of both of these important foodstuffs... Read More

Weight Loss Recipe: Veal Mango

Just because you are watching your weight does not mean you can't prepare fantastic meals for company. "Veal Mango" is one of range of hunger fighting, low... Read More

How to Make Gooey Grits Cake

I was intrigued when I came across this unusual dessert recipe. Now, ordinarily, I wouldn't think that a dessert containing grits, of all things, would be appealing.... Read More

Weight Loss Recipe: Turkey Tomato Wrap

Are you struggling to lose or maintain your weight? Then this recipe can help you along the journey. Long term weight loss isn't about hunger, misery and... Read More